Launch of two new London Audio Walks.

Last week I  finally recorded two new audio walks for London. These have been a rather long time in arriving. Works in progress for Vienna, Geneva and Kendal were put to one side for a while. London, the city where I grew up, turned into a labour of love. Weeks have been spent researching, buildings, history, facts and the fiction of the most fascinating and captivating city in the world.

Both walks begin at Trafalgar Square.
Corridors Of Power, covers Whitehall, Big Ben, The Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey.
Processions, Palaces and Piccadilly, takes in the Mall, Buckingham Palace, St James's and Piccadilly.

Each recording lasts around an hour, they will take those following the tour as long as they wish.
The cost of each walk as a download is £6.00, both can be bought for £11.00
Each is packed with information researched from a number of sources. I want to use this post as an opportunity to give a name check to the books I have developed a relationship with over the last few months.

This relationship is not over as I am now well into a third wander, leaving to the East of Trafalgar Square, heading into Covent Garden, Seven Dials, Soho, Carnaby Street ending with a saunter down Regent Street.

Here in no particular order are those, now very well thumbed books. Along with links to them or at least those that I could find.

Discovering Off-Beat Walks in London   John Wittich and Ron Phillips

Secret London                                     Andrew Duncan

London's Strangest Tales                     Tom Quinn

Eccentric London                                 Benedict Le Vay

Discovering London Street Names         John Wittich

What's in a Name                                Cyril Harris

Favourite London Walks                       Andrew Duncan

London Theme Walks                          Frank Duerden

The London Compendium                     Ed Glinert

Secret London an Unusual Guide          Rachel Howard and Bill Nas

Movie Locations                                  Tony Reeves

I Never Knew That About London         Christopher Winn

Dictionary of London Phrase and Fable  Russ Willey

Do Not Pass Go                                   Tim Moore

London Calling                                    Barry Miles

Suggs and the City                              Suggs

There are others including a selection of very old books from The Carnforth Bookshop

The new walks are recorded in a large studio in Kendal, where I now live, under the ever watchful eye of Tim Riley. These two walks now have a non musical ambient  background track.

The walks are currently  being added to the website www.headtofoot.eu

To hear samples of the other tours  click on the city name. Maastricht, Bruges and Antwerp

www.headtofoot.eu

walk the talk

Take a look at our gallery

Head to Foot 40 hours in Rome.

 Stopped clock at the Vatican

Head to Foot 40 hours in Rome

Legend says you will return to Rome if you throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain.

Some years ago I was in Rome creating a team building challenge around the city for my old company Catalyst Events. I managed to throw a coin in the fountain.  

The legend works.This weekend I returned with Gill to celebrate her birthday.

Now home stunning sites, monumental architecture, great weather, good times running around my head along with a selection of blisters from not entirely sensible footwear.

Flying BA from Manchester with a change at Gatwick, with just over 30 minutes to make the connection. Not an easy task these days, as bags need x-raying and the tiny tube of tooth paste purchased in Manchester must have the seal broken before continuing. I often wonder if some security personal has Middle Eastern appearance mixed up with middle-aged appearance.

Touch down in Rome, straight onto Leonardo Express straight through to Rome’s main terminal. 

11 euro each.

 Using Late Rooms, I found accommodation close to the station, for 120Euro for two nights Bed and Breakfast. Ensuring as full a day on the Sunday as possible. I decided  to live a little extravagantly as it was Gills birthday.

Alex from Incanto Romano had sent me a mail asking to check in at his restaurant.

Alarm bells flashed through my mind at this point.  But hey all we wanted was a place to sleep; we were there to see Rome not the inside of a hotel.

Finding the restaurant easily, Roberto brother of Alex greeted us, welcoming us like long lost friends, sit down have a drink. Then off to the room.

Four keys later we were accommodated, Bed and Breakfast apartments in a typical Rome apartment.

Open and closing the huge double doors to the lobby and courtyard making us feel like real residents of Rome.

Took dinner in the restaurant where we had checked in, full house but once again greeted with open arms, table found complimentary drinks in hand.

Rome was feeling good.

Our regular approach to a short city break is taking a hop on hop off bus tour. Even better if weather is good and the top deck is open. Using City Sightseeing. 18 euro each with the ticket lasting through the weekend. 

Commentary in 8 languages. 

Rome has so much for visitors to witness, discover and enjoy all well documented and covered in numerous guidebooks.  For us the bus was the perfect introduction. Getting on and off wherever and whenever we wanted. Finding us eventually rather a long way from Incanto Romano long after the bus had stopped running for the day.

Enjoy a few snaps of Head to Foot in Rome.

Gill at the Vatican, 2 hour wait to visit Sistine Chapel. Many offers from guides able to fast track wait.

I found the fact that one of the clocks on the Vatican was stopped. Or is there something I don't know.

The Pantheon, second visit here, each time my breath is taken away. Built in AD 118-125.

Throwing a coin in the  Trevi Fountain. Looks as if Gill will return to Rome.

Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore. Stunning decorations and riches inside.

No idea who this is but just loved the pose.

                 How on earth do you get to live in a place like this. Centre of Rome on River Tiber.

Piazza Navona the place for some very good and some very strange street performers.

Spent some time, longer than planned as fascinated by this. Italians flocking round a parked  orange Lamborghini to take their pictures with it, pretending it was theirs. Many times.

 Grilled Lamb from the Old Marconi.

The blisters will heal but the memories will remain. Architecture, history , Religion beyond my imagination, statues that want to make me create Gothic Horror stories.  Wonderful food, wine, ice cream and desserts. To much for one weekend.

I would like to give a big thank you to Alex and Roberto from Incanto Romano who greeted us like old friends, with their open arms. Extending to not allowing us to pay for any part of our meal on Saturday night, when we finally finished walking and wandered into the restaurant around 10.00, letting us stay with them while they ate at the end of their day. There had been mention of a  free meal on the booking, but to pay nothing at all including drinks was so kind of them.

Grazie Alex and Roberto

One little warning if buying a ticket to the airport at the station you can save a  Euro a person if you get the ticket at the official ticket office rather than an agency office in the station.

This is another trip on the Head to Foot never ending tour, more nights away than Bob Dylan.

Head to Foot is currently working on two London walks which will be recorded in April and downloadable for £6.00 each by the end of April.

There are two audio walks of Antwerp, one for Maastricht and Bruges currently available for download.

Click on the town to hear samples.

 Antwerp        Bruges           Maastricht

Take a look at the Head to Foot Gallery

Greatest Day out with Arsenal in Porto, but pants result.

February 17^th saw the Knock out stages of the Champions league resume for Arsenal.

This meant a two-legged match against Porto. The first leg played in Portugal’s hard working second city.

Porto.

There is an old saying, Lisbon shows off and Porto works. Make of that what you will. Those from Lisbon refer to those from Porto as tripeiros, tripe eaters; in turn they call the southerners alfachinhas, lettuce eaters.

I have a daughter and a son, both teenagers, Jackson 18 and Cassidy 16. Both of whom it turns out is always up for a bit of an adventure with dad.

Over the years, these have included 5 star hotel site visits, major road trips across Europe, sharing rooms, wild and civilised camping, searching for tigers off elephants in Nepal, and even a wedding in Bhutan.

Cassidy and I had visited Lisbon previously, when I had to create a living game of Monopoly for a conference taking place.

Jackson, now 18 and driving suggested, why not drive to Porto, to see the match. Both of us being members of Arsenal, tickets would not be hard to get.

He approached me with his plan, and an AA route map.

“Look Dad it only takes 23 hours driving to Porto.”

Pointing out that was 23 hours straight, it we a few days, I had once driven to Lisbon for a job.

Jackson responded with “if we take the van we can put something in the back to lay on, one can drive while the other sleeps.”

It was Half term week so we did have time.

Rather than dismissing his enthusiasm, I was warming to the prospect of this adventure.

Finally sitting down with pen, paper and calculator, the trip was beginning to look like a rather expensive adventure. Sometime during these calculations Jackson pointed out that Arsenal Travel were running a day trip including flights tickets and all transfers for less than 25% of the cost we had worked out for our week long trip.

Sorted, get on line book now, Gill instructed. Gill and I are both Londoners who have live in Cumbria for getting on for 20 years. Gills mum is in the south, Gill and Cass had a visit arranged that week we needed to tag on as the flight was from Gatwick.

17 th February saw the pair of us with a 4am alarm call, taxi for 5am. Check in beginning at 5.45.

What followed was possibly one of the best days I have ever had out in my life, and I can assure you that I have spent a lifetime of having days out.

Arsenal Travel team could not have been any more efficient, smooth check in, boarding passes for the return flight that night issued.

Tickets for the game. Cleared security, if you have seen a previous blog of mine you will know that I had a problem with special branch recently. Money changed, including a few notes refused in Hungary the week before.

Thomas Cook sport operated the plane, which was full. Yes a cooked breakfast arrived. Almost forgotten about airline breakfasts, which come with a knife and fork.

Bit of a snooze and touch down for 10.00 in Porto, same time zone as UK.

Six coaches, engines warmed, survival instructions issued, maps, consulate details, emergency phone number, police escort through town.

Many on the coach were obviously going to have a look around rather than knock back local beer all day, judging by the amount of guidebooks.

A couple of years ago after finishing working at a conference in Lisbon, the crew flew home, I had decided to work my way back to Cumbria by train. Amsterdam at least, due to unplanned schedules my car was parked at Liverpool.

First stop had been Porto, for a day or so of Port, Bacallau and buildings. I had a few places to share with my son.

We had been dropped off south of the Douro River, presenting a superb view of Ribeira, a Unesco World Heritage Site.

Crossing the narrow, double-decker bridge, Ponte de Dom Luis I, first stop was the vernacular tram to the higher part of town. The town is built on the steep edges of the river valley.

First stop Café Majestic, possibly the most historic and famous in town. Writers, artist and philosophers’ would gather here to exchange ideas, or maybe just drink.

Beautiful inside and should be included on any visit.

Stroll along the shopping street of Rua Santa Catarina. Quick visit to introduce Jackson to the joys of FNAC. Remember I live in Cumbria.

Onto Praca De Liberade, last time I was here an enormous scaffold Christmas tree was being dismantled, I had seen it a few years earlier in Lisbon. Scaffold Christmas tree does not sound much, but it is, I understand the only one larger is in Rio.

Lunch was to bacalhau, dried codfish, a staple part of the diet around here. If you buy it wash it many times otherwise the saltiness is unbearable.

This was to be in a working mans café, totally local, far to much fish, a little to much local wine, topped of with a glass of Port.

My jacket still carries the cooking smells of that café.

What match have we come to see, oh yeah?

Afternoons wandering around strange places, winter sun on your face, good lunch inside your belt, a feeling that cant be beat. Even more enjoyable sharing the experience with one of your kids. Who still talk to you.

Many alleyways, steps, monuments, photo opportunities, parks and sights.

Time to return to the mission’s objective, we were here to enjoy a football match.

A European night. With any luck a number of superlatives could be inserted at the start of the sentence.

Arsenal fans, guidebooks packed away. Gathered around the squares of Riberia, south side of the river.

A couple of beers in the sun, joined by locals, a few songs the atmosphere was carnival like. Anticipation was high for a favourable result.

Blackburn away on December afternoon, this was not.

5.30 was the time to arrive back at the coaches. Last alcohol swallowed at 5.00.

Bit of rain on the way back to coaches, the authorities must have been clouding bursting or just very good.

Police escort to the ground, past heavily protected and armed police. Experience the delight of the Porto club shop; take part in some stage games, provided by the sponsor. It was agreed I would let Jackson win, as it was I won a prize for just having the right credit card. Happy daze.

Queuing at the bar for another beer, it became clear there was no alcohol involved in this brewing process. Perfect planning on behalf of FIFA, mines a coke then.

Lovely new stadium, big crowd, flags and fireworks, poor refereeing decisions.

Need less to say the Arsenal lost, much has been written about the free kick that allowed this. But we do have the away goal, plus the game at the Emirates, to rectify everything.

Kept behind in the stadium for a while after the game, coaches, and police escorts to airport. Exciting but very subdued, not a song to be heard, just mutterings and moans.

What I love about football is that you just can’t make this stuff up, and write about it.

Once again a smooth operation at both airports Porto and Gatwick, taxi waiting, finally falling into bed 23 hours after getting out of it.

I first saw Arsenal as a 12 year old in 1970, even with the disappointment of the result; this was possibly one of my greatest days out.

Thanks must go to all involved in organising this trip at both ends, but big thanks to Arsenal Travel.

Let get through to the next leg, then I’m booking again. No doubt Jackson and I will be doing this for years, one day he might be able to treat me.

Its taken a while to finish this, I have created a number of walking tours event companies in the last couple of weeks.  Please feel free to contact me if you might be interested in these.

Pants in Porto

To find out more about Head To Foot click here

Listen to free audio samples click here

Budapest where even the best laid plans can go wrong

Adventures on Budapest transport system.

Days often begin with high expectations, excitement and the best laid plans for the next adventure. Then it all seems to go AWOL without any effort from yourself.

Today that happened to me in Budapest. I had a plan, I knew how to get there with a tourist bus, expensive but did include entrance.

My planned destination, Statue Park, some 10 km outside the city.

This was my forth or possibly fifth visit to Budapest, on those occasions if I had time between work commitments I also aimed to visit the park.

Today I had a day to spare. The tourist bus leaves at 11.00 and 15.00 from Deak ter. My helpful hotel receptionist wrote out in neatest upper case English, all I needed to know

Take the number 7 in direction of Etele Ter, a terminus then look for a yellow bus going to Erdor, these place names of course did not look like this in Hungarian. Tickets for the city buses, purchase from a news kiosk.

Tickets for the local bus had to be purchased at the terminus.

Tickets bought, stop found, letting a couple of number 7’s pass with out the final destination I had been given on their boards. Time to ask, a couple of blank looks followed.

Missed the 11.00 tourist bus by now.

Clutching my 300ft ticket I boarded the number 7. Forty minutes later still clutching my ticket, having no idea who to show it to.

Built in natural directions were telling me the bus had gone the wrong way, checking the number 7 buses travelling the other direction I still saw none with the destination I had been given.

Finally somewhere out in the parts of Budapest that looked as if they were the locations used for filming Munich, it was filmed here. I left the bus and crossed the street, boarding the next 7 determined to ride to its destination, hey I might have just got on a bus going the wrong direction. 

Oh no I hadn’t this bus terminated 45 minutes later, not a yellow bus to be seen.

No worries there is a tourist bus leaving at 15.00, I’ll bite the bullet and get that.

Another bus ride back to town, still with the original ticket crumpling between my fingers, a selection in pristine condition in my wallet.

Wandering backstreets to Deak ter, discovered you could just wander into a shop and show your interest in purchasing automatic weapons and some serious ammunition for said weapon. Along with some good second hand record stores.

There was no tourist bus at 15.00 during the winter, only 11.00, so a big thanks Eyewitness Travel for that hopeless bit of information. The existence of the 15.00 bus managed to keep my hopes up as I traversed the city’s hi-rise hinterlands.

Imagining I would be able to have some kind of serious comment on the psychogeography of Budapest from looking on fascinated by the blocks of flats to my left and right.

The statue park is on my hit list next visit, maybe I will take the tourist bus, or even a taxi.

The park is a final resting place for the socialist statues that adorned squares, parks, street corners, and public buildings and just about everywhere during the Communist rule of Hungary, until 1989.

When the Communist rule ended most countries destroyed the statues. Hungarians with a little business savvy put them all in a park out of town so tourist could pay to get there and pay to get in and look at them. Once there you can spend a lot of money on Communist Years memorabilia. I’m a sucker for this sort of stuff, but do find the passing of large amounts of money for such items has a certain irony.

That of course is if the tourist is smart enough to get himself there.

This tourist will get there next time as he has had a good look at his bus map and found the bus he should have been directed was number 7E.

Again bus number 7E, looking forward to pointing this out to my friendly receptionist in the morning.

I did come across a great relic later in the day, the right hand of King St Stephan, he died in 1038, but his mummified hand is housed in St Stephan’s Basilica.

I love a holy relic.

Tomorrow I return to Endmoor by van, driving back with a friend who has made a delivery here this week.
Keep an eye out for those adventures. Off to find a tv to watch Arsenal now.


Sean

www.headtofoot.eu

ALFIE by Blackeyed Theatre Company

Just felt the need to share an experience,  an opportunity many can share, experience and enjoy.
Last night Gill and I enjoyed  our second visit in the same week to Lancaster Grand Theatre.
Thursday night was spent tittering, chuckling and sniggering in the company of the house wife's favourite homosexual, Julian Clary. On occasions the pair of us did wonder why on earth we found that comment funny, but could not hold back the guilty sniggers. The house was packed full of like minded  titterers.

Saturday night was spent in the head  of Bill Naughton's chauvinistic Alfie.  Performed by the Blackeyed Theatre Company.

Being  familiar with the Alfie's of  Michal Caine and Jude law, I found myself immersed within minutes in the Alfie of Eddie Elks. Totally believable, intensely watchable, images of Caine and Law blown out my head, Eddie made the role his own. Not only Alfie but every single member of this five piece, multi role playing cast performed out of their skins to entertain a disappointingly sparse audience.

Not once during the interpretation did my mind wander from the story unfolding before me. Gripped by the seat of my pants and chair by five skillful performers.

Gabrielle Meadows, Courtney Spence, Lisa Howard and Ben Harrison along with Elks made up the cast.

This production is touring through to April, get yourself a ticket for yourselves, your teenage kids, tell your friends and strangers in the street. Pack out theatre's and forget cosy nights in front of reality TV.

Alfie comes to our town in March, Kendal Brewery. I will be buying my kids and their friends tickets and witnessing the performance again.

Hats off and thrown in the air to celebrate all those involved.





This week the Head to Foot never ending tour will be heading to Budapest, watch out for next post.

Geneva, Head to Foots quick Top Ten

 Head to Foots very quick Top Ten to Do in Geneva

Returned this week from a rather busy ten days. Ireland and Geneva, with only ac couple of nights back at Head to Foot Towers in the middle.

The reason for the travelling, I was working for Catalyst Events, a team-building company.

Arriving in Geneva on Sunday, with the job on Monday and a return on Tuesday, I decided to stay an extra day and have a look around Geneva.

For my adventures at the airport see the last blog.

Having Visited Geneva a couple of times previously, only briefly to see the water spout and have lunch in Switzerland.

The Event took place at the Intercontinental Hotel. This stands alone so it can be protected easily from attack. Bill Clinton and Castro both stayed in the hotel at the same time during a conference in town. The hotel Manager made sure they never met in the lift.

My first two nights were spent in the Ramada hotel very close to the airport and very little else. Apart from some kind of faux bikers bar, Le Petit Bison.

No problem though, as a visitor to the town you will get a Geneva Transport Card, which lets you use all public transport for free during your visit. Buses, trams and waterbuses.

For the first two days the town seemed cold very grey, and expensive. Not being a member of the Euro, you need to get heads round a new exchange rate. 

Around CH1.60 to the £.

From Tuesday Lunch time I was on my own, making the schoolboy error of wearing a new pair of boots, as yet unworn in.

My first plan is always to take a guided bus tour of a new city. These give me bearings and in most cases, locations I want to visit again, in my sore boots.

Tourist information at the main Post Office pointed me in the direction of a tour.

Operated by Key Tours, leaving from the central bus station. CH45 seemed a bit expensive. A fascinating guide rather than a pair of hissing headphones led the tour.

There was around an hour of wandering on foot around the old town. Why did I wear these boots?

The tour covered the North of Lake Geneva, United Nations Buildings and park and the International area. Heading to the South of the lake, which looks like a fabulous stroll in the summer. Finally off to discover the History of the old town, and Geneva’s importance in the Reformation.

Wednesday saw me wandering on foot, and taking advantage of my free transport card.

Here’s a few snaps of things I found fascinating during my short visit.

I do have a slightly off kilter way of looking at places.

Jet d'Eau photo taken from the water bus, this is two things to do. 7 tons of water in the air at one time.

Not my best photo, the United Nations Building and Gardens. You will need a passport to enter.

  

Keith Haring masonry in the old town

.

The world longest wooden bench

Saint Peter's Cathedral and the Chapel of Maccabees. Take a look around the ancient remains beneath the cathedral, CH5 with audio guide.

 Chair outside United Nations, to remind us of the horrors of land mines.

From this point Calvin would preach to the men of Geneva each day at 6.00 am. They would then have to take his words back to their families and pass them on.

The Russian Church, built by white Russians before the revolution.

My find of the day Janus a two headed turtle. Yes folks its alive and 13 years old. Janus lives in the entrance to the Natural History Museum.
He was not looking at me when I was there, but I can assure you he is living. Got to be honest I think its a tortoise.

Public Museums are free to enter in Geneva.

Once I had come across the old town impressions of the town improved a bit.

I stayed close to the centre at Le Capitole Hotel, nice but a bit over my budget.
Best meal was in La Bagatelle on Boulevard James-Fazy 20. 1204 Geneva. Opposite the church.
Not top of the pile but suited my budget, surroundings perfect for dining on your own, space to spread out a newspaper.

Great second hand vinyl store on same street as La Bagatelle, just after bridge heading toward Airport. Lost name but will find it. Lost a couple of hours in there.

Geneva, cold, sunny, grey, bright, old, sort of modern, maybe I needed more time there. Dont think there will be an audio guide following this trip.

Sentences you don’t want to hear when going through security at an airport.

“Hello sir, I’m from Special Branch, could you step into this room.”

Last Sunday morning this was the sentence spoken to me. Once my laptop, phone, wallet, change, newspaper and book had gone through the scanner at Liverpool airport.

The guard asked to swab my laptop, no problem there, while this was going on something else in my plastic tray had caused concern.

The item of interest was swiftly removed. I was approached, asked for my boarding card. This was placed in the item and taken to another desk, behind high screens in the corner of the room.

Laptop returned I approached the screened desks to get the item of concern returned.

“ Not at the moment sir, we need someone senior to take a look at it”

I waited, colleagues waving as they made their way for coffee and the departure lounge.

After a few minutes a light grey suited man approached me. He then uttered the sentence that puts the fear of God into any overweight, grey haired, middle-aged broad-minded British European with a clear conscious.

“ Hello sir, I’m from Special Branch, could you step into this room”

I was taken into a classic interview room. Three chairs, table, and to my eye nothing else.

Passport taken, the item of concern was placed in front of me on the table.

The man from Special Branch left with my passport. Five minutes or so later another head popped round the door.

“ He wont be long sir, sit tight.”

Making a dash for the plane and freedom really had not crossed my mind.  Anyway I had no passport.

Ten minutes can take a hell of long time to pass. Endeavouring to give an appearance of no concern to the hidden cameras that my imagination had found in every bare corner of the room.

I read the same sentence on the sports page over and over again.

Special Branch returned.

“ You can go now, sir”

 Item of interest returned.

I left the room to rejoin my colleagues.

Head spinning with what ifs. What have they done, have they bugged my house, hacked my computer. Do they know I once read a copy of The School Kids Oz in the playground at school?  I like the Alabama 3, never wear a tie and dream of living off the grid.

Realising these were pointless concerns as the strangeness of the situation washed over me.

Ladies and Gentleman the item of such interest was the book I was reading.

A book picked up from a market stall in Milnthorpe for £2.50. Written in 1974, by a pair of Swedish writers Majsjowall and Per Wahloo. Set in Sweden, the main character was a police officer, the last in a series of 10.

The authors used their books to highlight social issues in Sweden at the time.

Me I had seen Wallender on the TV and the book caught my eye.

 Yes the title of the book is The Terrorists. There is a picture of a comedy bomb on the cover.

I can only imagine that it was this image that the x-ray machine picked up, alerting Special Branch.

I must raise my hat in respect to security at Liverpool for such alertness; our flying experiences will surely be much safer in future.

On the other hand, a book is a book, a flick through the pages should reveal if the middle has been cut out. Or was it that maybe the title gave the impression I was reading a terrorist manual.  Or was it thought to be subversive and content inappropriate for these times.

The book is now finished, and thoroughly enjoyed and will get a high recommendation from me.

I can assure you it remained well tucked into my luggage for the return Journey.

Come to think of it there is a car I don’t recognise been parked outside our house for a couple of days, with a shadowy figure in the passenger seat.

Are they watching me now?

 item of interest